Joe's Goolash

Call it goulash if you like, but this is really a big, generous skillet of garden vegetables cooked down until everything turns tender and savory. It’s the kind of dish that empties the crisper drawer and somehow tastes better for it.

The order of operations is what makes it work. Hardy potatoes and onions go in first for a head start, since they take the longest, followed by peppers, then quick-cooking zucchini and yellow squash, and finally mushrooms and cherry tomatoes. Cooking it covered lets the potatoes steam through while the tomatoes break down into a light, glossy sauce.

A splash of soy sauce right at the end brings a savory, umami backbone that ties the whole pan together. Then the heat goes off and fresh spinach and cilantro get folded in, wilting gently in the residual warmth so they stay bright green instead of cooking to mush.

Kitchen Tips

• Add the vegetables in stages by how long they cook: potatoes first, tender greens last, so nothing overcooks.
• Stir the spinach and cilantro in off the heat and cover the pan; residual warmth wilts them without dulling their color.
• Cut the potatoes a touch smaller than the squash so everything finishes tender at the same moment.

Variations

• Use tamari in place of soy sauce to keep the whole dish gluten-free.
• Add a can of chickpeas or white beans for protein, or a pinch of chili flakes for heat.