Fricasse of Veal with Fiddleheads

Veal fricassee with fiddleheads is a French country dish that captures the brief window of spring when fiddlehead ferns come up across the Northeast and Quebec. Cubes of tender veal simmer gently in white wine and broth with chopped onions and fresh chervil, then finish in a sauce enriched with cream and dotted with the curled green spirals of just-cooked fiddleheads.

A proper fricassee isn’t a braise and it isn’t a saute. The technique is somewhere between, a gentle stovetop simmer in a flavorful liquid that keeps the meat pale and tender rather than browning it. Sauteing the veal only lightly (no Maillard browning) preserves the delicate flavor and the classic blanc (white) appearance that defines this French preparation.

Fiddleheads need a separate quick boil before joining the veal. Raw fiddleheads contain compounds that need to be cooked off, so a five-minute blanch in heavily salted water is non-negotiable for both safety and flavor. They taste like a cross between asparagus and a young artichoke, with that signature grassy spring brightness.

Chervil is the herb to find for this dish, with its delicate anise-leaning flavor that pairs beautifully with cream and veal. Dried works in a pinch, but fresh is dramatically better. The cream goes in just before the fiddleheads to keep the sauce silky and prevent splitting.

Serve over rice, buttered egg noodles, or boiled potatoes to soak up the sauce.

Chef Tips

• Don’t brown the veal, just heat through to seal in juices, browning takes the dish out of fricassee territory
• Boil the fiddleheads in well-salted water and pat dry before adding, excess water dilutes the cream sauce
• Stir the cream in over low heat, boiling cream splits and goes oily
• Choose tightly curled fresh fiddleheads with brown papery scales, avoid any that have opened up or look yellowed

Variations

• Substitute chicken breast or thigh cubes for the veal in equal proportions
• Use asparagus tips or fresh peas if fiddleheads are out of season
• Add a tablespoon of Dijon mustard along with the cream for a sharper, more piquant sauce