Favorite Homemade Gnocchi

Real homemade gnocchi are softer and lighter than anything from a vacuum-sealed package, and the secret is restraint with the flour. Start with cooked, mashed potatoes, season with salt, pepper, and a little basil, then add flour gradually, only as much as it takes for the dough to come together.

Too much flour is the classic gnocchi mistake. It turns them dense and gummy instead of tender and pillowy, so add it a tablespoon at a time and stop the moment the dough holds.

Cut the rope of dough into one-inch pieces. Because these dumplings are thicker than regular pasta, they need a few extra minutes in plenty of boiling water, around five, until cooked through and firm.

Drain and toss them straight into a simple sauce: brown butter, a marinara, or just olive oil and Parmesan.

Chef Tips

• Use starchy potatoes like russets and let the mash cool a bit. Cooler, drier potato needs less flour and makes lighter gnocchi.
• Don’t overwork the dough once the flour is in, or you develop gluten and toughen the dumplings.
• They’re done when firm and floating to the surface. Fish them out then so they don’t waterlog.
• Roll each piece against a fork or gnocchi board to make ridges that grab and hold the sauce.

Variations

• Toss the boiled gnocchi in brown butter and sage for a classic Italian finish.
• Work spinach or roasted squash puree into the dough for color and flavor.
• Crisp the boiled gnocchi in a hot buttered skillet for golden, chewy edges.