Berlinerkranzer

Berlinerkranzer, Norwegian for ‘Berlin wreaths', are a fixture of the Scandinavian Christmas cookie table. The dough is tender and buttery, perfumed with grated orange zest, and the magic is in the shaping. Each piece is rolled into a thin rope and looped into a little wreath, ends crossed and tucked under like a tiny knot.

Before baking, the wreaths get a brush of foamy, sugared egg white that dries into a delicate, sparkling crust. Then come the decorations that make them unmistakably festive: bits of red candied cherry pressed in for holly berries and slivers of citron cut into jagged leaves.

The trick is to bake them just until set but still pale. Berlinerkranzer should never brown, staying soft, light and almost shortbread-like. Lift them off the sheet right away while they’re tender.

Kitchen Tips

• Roll the ropes thin and even so the wreaths bake through without browning.
• Watch them closely. They’re done when set but still pale, and any color means they lose their delicate character.
• Brush on the sugared egg white right before baking so it crisps into a light, sparkly finish.
• Remove them from the sheet the moment they come out, while warm and pliable, so they don’t crack.

Variations

• Use lemon zest in place of orange for a brighter note.
• Decorate with red and green sanding sugar instead of candied fruit.
• Some traditional versions use sieved hard-boiled egg yolks for an even more melt-in-the-mouth cookie.