Avgolemono

Avgolemono is Greece’s answer to chicken soup, and it’s impossibly silky for something made with just chicken broth, rice, eggs, and lemon juice. The magic is in the technique: egg whites whipped stiff, yolks beaten in, then lemon juice added slowly while you keep beating. Temper this frothy mixture with hot broth before it goes back into the pot, and you get a velvety, creamy soup without a drop of cream.

The tempering step is everything. Pour about a fifth of the hot broth into the egg mixture while whisking constantly. This raises the egg temperature gradually so it won’t curdle when it hits the rest of the soup. Once combined, warm it gently on the stove but never let it boil. The moment it boils, you get scrambled egg soup.

Serve immediately. Avgolemono thickens as it sits and loses that beautiful pourable consistency.

Chef Tips

• Use homemade chicken broth if you can. The flavor is front and center in this simple soup, and boxed broth can taste flat.
• Add the lemon juice to the eggs gradually, not all at once. This prevents the acid from partially cooking the eggs before they’re ready.
• Keep the heat low after combining. Gentle warmth sets the eggs into a silky emulsion. High heat breaks it.
• Leftover avgolemono reheats on low, stirring often. It won’t be quite as silky, but it’s still good.

Variations

• Add shredded cooked chicken to the soup for a heartier meal.
• Use orzo pasta instead of rice for a slightly different texture.
• Squeeze in extra lemon juice at the table if you like it more tart.