Sweet Pepper Soup (Acquacotta)

Acquacotta (the name means “cooked water” in Italian) is a Tuscan peasant soup that turns kitchen-staple vegetables into something honest and satisfying. It belongs to the same family as pappa al pomodoro and ribollita: cucina povera that uses stale bread, ripe summer vegetables, and the contents of a Tuscan pantry to make a meal out of almost nothing.

The foundation is a slow soffritto of sliced onions in olive oil until they are fully soft and translucent. Strips of red or green bell pepper, diced celery, and peeled chopped tomatoes cook with the onions over brisk heat for 30 minutes to develop deep flavor before any water hits the pan.

The finishing move is the egg-and-cheese stir. Beaten eggs mixed with grated Parmesan get whisked into the hot soup at the end, where the proteins set in delicate ribbons (similar to Italian stracciatella) and the cheese melts into the broth. Pour the soup over thick slices of toasted bread in each bowl; the bread soaks up the broth and turns into the heart of the dish.

Chef Tips

• Stir the egg mixture into the soup slowly while gently moving the soup with a spoon; pour fast and you will get scrambled eggs in clumps instead of fine ribbons.
• Use stale, hearty rustic bread; soft fresh bread dissolves and disappears into the broth.
• Peel the tomatoes before chopping by scoring an X on the bottom and dropping in boiling water for 30 seconds, then ice water.
• Use the best Parmigiano-Reggiano you can; it is one of only four major flavor sources in the bowl.

Variations

• Add a small dried red chili flake for a Tuscan kick.
• Stir in a handful of chopped fresh basil or torn flat-leaf parsley right before serving.
• Crack a whole egg into each bowl instead of whisking, then ladle hot soup over to poach the egg in place for a heartier presentation.