Lemon Tea Loaf

This is afternoon-tea baking at its most graceful. A simple butter-and-sugar quick bread gets two full tablespoons of fresh lemon zest folded into the dry ingredients, which is what gives this loaf its assertive citrus aroma. The combination of butter and margarine in the fat is a deliberate Weight Watchers-style trade-off, keeping richness while trimming saturated fat.

Beat the sugar, butter, eggs, and margarine until doubled in volume. This is the step most home bakers shortcut, and it’s what separates a fluffy, light loaf from a dense, leaden one. Five full minutes on high speed is the target. The mixture will look pale and almost mousse-like when done.

Alternate the flour mixture with the milk, beating on low. Dumping the dry ingredients in all at once produces a tough crumb because the gluten develops too fast. The alternating technique gives a tender, evenly-mixed batter.

Fresh zest, not bottled. Bottled lemon flavor tastes flat and slightly bitter. Two tablespoons of fresh zest equals about three medium lemons. Use a microplane and zest only the yellow, never the bitter white pith underneath.

Let the loaf cool in the pan for exactly five minutes before turning out. Less and the loaf is too fragile and tears. More and condensation forms between the loaf and the pan, ruining the bottom crust.

Pro Tips

• Sift the flour and baking powder together for the lightest crumb. Lumps in baking powder produce dense spots.
• Brush the warm loaf with a quick lemon glaze (juice plus sugar) for a sticky, intense topping.
• Wrap and let sit overnight before slicing. Day-two flavor is significantly better.
• Use whole milk, not skim. The fat is what keeps the crumb tender.

Variations

• Add a teaspoon of poppy seeds for lemon poppy seed loaf.
• Fold in a half cup of fresh blueberries tossed in flour.
• Glaze the cooled loaf with a powdered sugar and lemon juice icing for a bakery finish.