Haselnusstoertchen

Haselnusstörtchen, the small German hazelnut cakes you find behind glass at every old-school Konditorei from Munich to Vienna. Ground hazelnuts replace most of the flour, which gives the cakes their dense, fragrant crumb and the nut-forward flavor that’s distinctly Central European.

The technique relies on separating the eggs and folding stiffly beaten whites back into the batter at the end. The whites are the only real leavener besides a small amount of baking powder, which means the air structure they hold is what keeps the cakes light. Open the oven door before they’re set and they collapse on the spot. The recipe says so for a reason.

The rum-and-water sugar glaze sets into a glossy white coating that hardens slightly as it cools. A single whole hazelnut placed in the center of each cake is the traditional finish.

Pro Tips

• Toast the hazelnuts in a dry pan before grinding. Toasted nuts taste twice as fragrant as raw
• Beat the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks, then fold them in by hand. A mixer deflates the foam
• Resist opening the oven during baking. Even a quick peek can collapse the delicate batter
• Cool the cakes completely in the tins before turning them out. Warm cakes tear apart

Variations

• Slice each cake horizontally twice and fill with apricot jam for the classic three-layer version
• Substitute ground almonds for half the hazelnuts for a Linzer-style flavor
• Drizzle dark chocolate over the cooled cakes instead of the rum glaze for a richer finish