Glazed Oranges

Glazed oranges is one of those quiet French desserts that looks fancy and tastes even better than it looks. Whole oranges are peeled clean of every shred of bitter pith, then sit chilled in a syrup made from candied slivers of their own zest, lightly spiced with mace, and laced with orange liqueur.

The cream of tartar in the syrup is the trick. It prevents the sugar from crystallizing as the syrup reduces and as the dessert sits in the fridge. Without it, you can end up with a grainy glaze instead of a clear, glossy one.

Removing only the colored part of the peel matters too. Strips that include the white pith turn the syrup bitter, and bitterness in a sweet dessert reads like an off note. A sharp vegetable peeler gives you the cleanest strips.

Four hours in the fridge isn’t optional. The cold time lets the syrup soak into the orange flesh and the candied zest soften into chewy little ribbons.

Pro Tips

• Use seedless oranges (navel oranges work best). Picking out seeds at the table ruins the elegance.
• Slice the peeled oranges crosswise into thick rounds and stack back into shape for serving, with the syrup poured over and the candied slivers scattered on top.
• The syrup should reduce to about 1½ cups, glossy and thick enough to coat a spoon. Under-reduce and it runs off; over-reduce and it stiffens as it cools.
• Add the liqueur off the heat. Boiling drives off the alcohol and the floral aromatics that make Grand Marnier or Cointreau worth using.

Variations

• Swap the orange liqueur for elderflower liqueur or a splash of dry vermouth for a different floral note.
• Add a split vanilla bean or a small piece of cinnamon stick to the syrup as it simmers.
• Use blood oranges in winter for a striking ruby version with deeper, slightly tart flavor.