Cheesy Popover Ring

Despite the name, this isn’t a popover at all. It’s a cheddar-loaded pâte à choux, the same dough behind cream puffs and gougeres, piped into a ring and baked until it puffs into a crackly, hollow crown.

The technique is what matters. Boil the water and butter together, dump the flour in all at once, and beat hard with a wooden spoon. Keep beating until the dough pulls away from the pan and leaves a thin film on the bottom. That step cooks out the raw flour taste and dries the dough enough to absorb four eggs.

Add the eggs one at a time. The dough will look broken and slick after each addition, this is normal. Keep beating and it pulls back together into a glossy, pipe-able paste. Rush it and the ring won’t rise.

Sharp cheddar gives the best flavor punch but Gruyère is the classic French move and worth trying. Reserve those two tablespoons for the top so you get a craggy, browned cheese crust.

Space the dough mounds so they touch but don’t crowd. As they bake they’ll fuse into a pull-apart ring with that signature hollow-center crumb.

Pro Tips

• Eggs at room temperature absorb into the hot dough faster and give better rise. Cold eggs cool the mixture and stunt the puff.
• Don’t open the oven for the first 40 minutes. A draft will collapse the ring before the structure sets.
• Hot from the oven is the only way. As it cools the interior softens. Reheat slices at 350°F (175°C) for 5 minutes to revive the crackle.
• Pair with a tomato soup for the easiest dinner upgrade going.

Variations

• Swap cheddar for Gruyère and add 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard for a true gougere.
• Stir 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or thyme into the dough.
• Sprinkle everything bagel seasoning on top instead of extra cheese.