Poffertges--Doughnuts From Holland

Dutch poffertjes traditionally come off a special dimpled griddle, but this old-school home version takes the spirit and runs it through hot oil instead. The result is a crisp little fried doughnut with a shockingly tender, almost custardy interior that puffs up the second it hits the fryer.

The technique is straight-up choux pastry. Melting the butter into scalded milk, then beating in the flour until the dough pulls away from the pan walls, builds the steam-trapping structure that gives these their hollow, airy lift.

Dust them with powdered sugar the second they come out of the oil and serve with strong coffee. They go cold and dense fast, so eat them right away.

Kitchen Tips

• Hold the oil at a steady 350°F (175°C). Too hot and they brown before the centers cook through, too cool and they soak up grease and turn leaden.
• Use two spoons to drop small balls into the oil rather than a scoop, the irregular shape gives more crispy surface area.
• Beat the eggs in one at a time off the heat, fully incorporating each before adding the next, for the smoothest dough.
• Fry in small batches so the oil temperature doesn’t crash and the balls have room to puff without sticking together.

Variations

• Toss the warm doughnuts in cinnamon sugar instead of powdered sugar for a churro-style coating.
• Serve with a quick warm chocolate sauce or fruit jam for dipping.
• Add a teaspoon of orange or lemon zest to the dough for a brighter, citrus-tinged version.