King Sitic Moules Mariniere- (4*)

Moules mariniere is French bistro cooking at its most honest: fresh mussels, white wine, cream, and not much else.

The mussels steam open in dry white wine over softened onions, releasing their briny liquor into the pot. A splash of cream and a few grinds of black pepper round it all out. No salt needed. The mussels bring plenty of their own.

Cleaning is where the real work lives. Pull the beards sideways, not down, or you’ll tear the mussel open. Scrape off any barnacles because they’ll break loose in the broth and grit up the sauce. Any mussels already open before cooking go straight in the bin. Same for any that stay shut after.

Kitchen Tips

• Buy mussels the day you cook them. They’re alive and don’t keep well. Store them in the fridge uncovered, never in a sealed bag or they’ll suffocate.
• Shake the pot instead of stirring. Stirring with a spoon breaks the shells and muddies the broth.
• Serve immediately once the cream comes to a boil. Seafood this fresh doesn’t wait for anyone.
• Have crusty bread ready for the broth. The wine-cream sauce at the bottom of the tureen is half the point.

Variations

• Add minced garlic with the onion for a Provencal twist.
• Replace cream with a knob of butter for a lighter, more traditional mariniere.
• Toss in a pinch of saffron with the wine for a golden, fragrant broth.