Best Veal Parmigiana

Pounding the cutlets to a quarter inch is what separates restaurant-style veal parm from the dry, leathery version most home cooks end up with. The thinner the meat, the faster it cooks, and the more sauce and cheese real estate you get per bite.

The breadcrumb coating here is mixed with grated parmesan before dredging, so the crust crisps with savory, salty edges in the hot oil. Don’t crowd the skillet during browning. Wet veal steams instead of searing, and you lose the crust under the tomato sauce later.

The sauce uses canned stewed tomatoes along with tomato sauce, which gives it body and chunk without simmering it for hours. Thirty minutes of uncovered cooking is enough to concentrate the basil and oregano. Top with shredded mozzarella in the last 15 minutes so it melts into golden pools without scorching.

Chef Tips

• Lay the cutlets between two sheets of plastic wrap before pounding to keep the kitchen clean and prevent tearing the meat.
• Use day-old breadcrumbs if you can. They cling better and brown more evenly than fresh.
• Let the dish rest 5 to 10 minutes after pulling it from the oven so the sauce thickens and slices hold together.

Variations

• Swap round steak for thinly sliced chicken breast for a chicken parmigiana version.
• Stir a pinch of red pepper flakes into the sauce for a low-key arrabbiata kick.
• Serve over spaghetti or alongside garlic bread to soak up every drop of sauce.