Potatoes with Onions

This is essentially aloo bhujia, a North Indian dry potato dish built on a foundation of whole spice tempering. Boiled potatoes get coarsely mashed, then fried in oil that’s been bloomed with cumin seeds, black mustard seeds, asafetida, and dried red chilies. The result is deeply fragrant, golden from the turmeric, and satisfying in a way plain mashed potatoes never are.

The tempering sequence is everything here, and it happens fast. Asafetida goes in first and sizzles for just seconds before the cumin and mustard seeds follow. The mustard seeds will pop and crackle when they’re ready. Then the dried red peppers go in and change color almost instantly. This all happens in under 30 seconds, so have every spice measured and within reach before you start.

Mashing the potatoes coarsely with a fork gives you a mix of chunky and smooth textures that fry up with crispy edges. A smooth puree won’t develop those golden, crunchy bits that make this dish worth the effort.

Chef Tips

• Boil potatoes in their skins (jackets) to keep them from getting waterlogged. Excess moisture makes them splatter when they hit the hot oil.
• Use 1 dried red chili for mild heat, up to 3 for serious fire. You can always remove them before serving.
• The garam masala and lemon juice go in at the very end. Both lose their punch if cooked too long. The lemon juice especially needs to stay bright.
• Serve with Indian flatbread like roti or paratha, or use as an appetizer spread on Melba toast rounds.

Variations

• Add a handful of frozen peas during the last few minutes of frying for color and sweetness.
• Toss in fresh curry leaves with the mustard seeds for a South Indian spin.
• Stir in chopped fresh cilantro just before serving for a hit of green freshness.