Gillan's Liver Bologna

This is genuine homestead cooking: beef liver ground with potatoes and bacon, bound with flour and buttermilk, packed into cloth bags, and boiled for two hours. The result is a dense, sliceable meat loaf that’s been a fixture in rural kitchens and old-world charcuterie for generations.

The eight pounds of potatoes aren’t just filler. Ground with the liver, they absorb the strong mineral flavor and mellow it into something much more approachable. The starch also acts as a binder, giving the finished bologna a smooth, firm texture that slices cleanly when cold.

Graham flour and white flour work together to hold the mixture together during the long boil. The graham flour adds a subtle nutty, wheaty flavor that white flour alone wouldn’t provide. Buttermilk adds a gentle tang and helps keep the texture moist.

Chef Tips

• Use a medium grinder blade for the liver and potatoes. Too fine and the texture becomes pasty. Too coarse and it won’t hold together.
• Pack the mixture tightly into the damp cloth bags, pressing out any air pockets. Air gaps create holes in the finished bologna.
• Keep the water at a steady, gentle boil for the full two hours. A rolling boil can burst the bags. A simmer won’t cook the center through.
• Cool completely before slicing. Warm liver bologna crumbles. Cold, it slices like deli meat.

Variations

• Use pork liver instead of beef for a milder, less mineral flavor.
• Add a teaspoon of ground allspice or sage to the mix for a more traditional sausage seasoning.
• Slice and pan-fry in butter until crispy on both sides for a completely different texture.