Fresh Apple-Chiffon Cake

Chiffon is the trick that keeps this apple cake from going dense the way butter cakes sometimes do. Oil in place of butter holds the crumb moist for days, while a full cup of whipped egg whites, folded in last, gives it that tall, cloud-light rise.

Fresh shredded McIntosh apples all but melt into the batter as it bakes, throwing off moisture and soft fruit flavor in every slice, backed by brown sugar and a warm trio of cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves.

The folding is the make-or-break moment. Lighten the heavy apple batter with about a third of the whites first, then fold the rest in gently until no white streaks remain. Stir too hard and you beat out the air you just worked in.

Bake it in an ungreased tube pan and cool it upside down, hung on a bottle neck, so the airy structure sets without collapsing. A caramel drizzle finishes it.

Kitchen Tips

• Make sure the egg-white bowl and beaters are spotless and grease-free, or the whites won’t climb to stiff peaks.
• Whip the whites just to stiff, glossy peaks, not dry and clumpy, which fold in unevenly.
• Shred the apples right before mixing so they don’t brown, and don’t drain them; that juice is what keeps the cake moist.
• Cool it completely before unmolding. A warm chiffon cake is fragile and tears easily.

Variations

• Swap the apple juice for fresh cider for a deeper orchard flavor.
• Fold in a half cup of toasted chopped walnuts or pecans for crunch.
• Skip the caramel and dust with powdered sugar, or finish with a cream cheese glaze.