Nancy's Banana Nut Muffins

There is no better use for bananas gone spotty and soft than a batch of these muffins. The riper the fruit, the sweeter and moister the crumb.

The recipe creams shortening and sugar first for a tender, cake-like texture, then folds in the mashed banana and a generous cup of chopped walnuts, though almonds or pecans work just as well.

Here is the one rule that separates good muffins from tough ones: add the dry ingredients all at once and stir only until they are just moistened. A few lumps are exactly right. Overmix and you develop the gluten, which gives you dense, rubbery muffins riddled with tunnels.

Fill the cups two-thirds full so they dome nicely, scatter a few extra nuts on top, and bake until golden. They are best served warm, with a little jam melting into the crumb.

Kitchen Tips

• Use very ripe, heavily speckled bananas. The browner they are, the sweeter and more flavorful the muffins.
• Stir the batter just until the flour disappears. Lumpy batter makes tender muffins; smooth, overworked batter makes tough ones.
• Fill the cups two-thirds full for a good dome without overflowing.

Variations

• Use almonds or pecans in place of walnuts, or a mix of all three.
• Add a handful of chocolate chips or a teaspoon of cinnamon to the batter.
• Stir in a spoonful of sour cream or yogurt for an even moister crumb.