Recipe Talk

Texas-Style Barbecued Beef Ribs

It is important to use beef ribs with a decent amount of meat, not bony scraps; otherwise, the rewards of making this recipe are few. Because the ribs cook slowly and for an extended period of time, charcoal briquettes, not hardwood charcoal (which burns hot and fast), make a better fuel. That said, do not use Match Light charcoal, which contains lighter fluid for easy ignition. For the wood chunks, use any type of wood but mesquite, which can have an overpowering smokiness. It's a good idea to monitor the grill heat; if you don't own a reliable grill thermometer, insert an instant-read thermometer into the lid vent to spot-check the temperature. Except when adding coals, do not lift the grill lid, which will allow both smoke and heat to escape. When barbecuing, we prefer to use a Weber 22-inch kettle grill.

Serves 4
Barbecue Sauce

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup minced onion

1 medium clove garlic , minced or pressed
through garlic press (about 1 teaspoon)

1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder

2 cups tomato juice

3/4 cup distilled white vinegar

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon powdered mustard mixed with 1
tablespoon water

1 teaspoon minced chipotle chile in adobo

2 tablespoons mild molasses or dark molasses
(not blackstrap)

1 1/2 teaspoons table salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Ribs

4 teaspoons chili powder

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons table salt

1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper

3 - 4 beef rib slabs (3 to 4 ribs per slab,
about 5 pounds total)

1. To make the Barbecue Sauce: Heat butter in small nonreactive saucepan over medium heat until foaming; add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add garlic and chili powder; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add tomato juice, 1/2 cup vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, chipotle, molasses, and salt; increase heat to high and bring to simmer, then reduce heat to medium and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce is slightly thickened and reduced to 1 1/2 cups, 30 to 40 minutes. Off heat, stir in pepper and remaining 1/4 cup vinegar. Cool to room temperature before serving. (Can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 4 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)

2. For ribs:Mix chili powder, cayenne, salt, and pepper in small bowl; rub ribs evenly with spice mixture. Let ribs stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

3. Meanwhile, cover 2 large wood chunks (see note) with water and soak 1 hour. Drain wood chunks. Open bottom grill vents. Using chimney starter, ignite 30 briquettes (about one-third large chimney, or 2 quarts) and burn until covered with thin coating of light gray ash, about 10 minutes. Empty coals into grill, then bank coals against one side of grill, stacking them 2 to 3 coals high; place 1 soaked wood chunk on top of coals. Position grill grate over coals, cover grill, and adjust lid vents two-thirds open. Heat grate until hot, about 5 minutes; scrape grill grate clean with grill brush. Position ribs, meat-side down, on cool side of grill (they may overlap slightly); cover, positioning lid so that vents are directly above ribs. (Temperature on thermometer inserted through vents should register about 300 degrees.) Cook until grill temperature drops to about 250 degrees, about 1 hour. (On cold, windy days, temperature may drop more quickly, so spot-check temperature. If necessary, add 5 additional briquettes to maintain temperature above 250 degrees during first hour of cooking.)

4. After 1 hour, add 20 more briquettes and remaining wood chunk to coals; using tongs, flip ribs meat-side up and rotate so that edges once closest to coals are now farthest away. Cover grill, positioning lid so that vents are opposite wood chunk; continue to cook until dinner fork can be inserted into and removed from meat with little resistance, meat pulls away from bones when rack is gently twisted, and meat shrinks 1/2 to 1 inch up rib bones, 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours longer. Transfer ribs to cutting board and let rest 5 minutes; using chef's knife, slice between bones to separate into individual ribs. Serve, passing sauce separately.

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Sweet and Tangy Oven-Barbecued Chicken

Real maple syrup is preferable to imitation syrup, and "mild" or "original" molasses is preferable to darker, more bitter types. If you are content to use bottled sauce, we had the best luck with Bull's-Eye Original, winner of a blind tasting held last year. Use 1 3/4 cups of sauce and, in step 2, reduce the sauce cooking time from 4 minutes to 2 minutes.

Serves 4 1 cup ketchup

2 tablespoons grated onion

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons molasses

2 tablespoons maple syrup

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts 6 to 7
ounces each (with tenderloins), patted dry with
paper towels

Table salt and ground black pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position, about 5 inches from upper heating element; heat oven to 325 degrees. Whisk ketchup, onion, Worcestershire, mustard, molasses, maple syrup, vinegar, chili powder, and cayenne in small bowl; set aside. Season chicken with salt and pepper.

2. Heat oil in heavy-bottomed, nonreactive, 12-inch ovenproof skillet over high heat until beginning to smoke. Brown chicken skinned-side down until very light golden, 1 to 2 minutes; using tongs, turn chicken and brown until very light golden on second side, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to plate and set aside. Discard fat in skillet; off heat, add sauce mixture and, using a wooden spoon, scrape up browned bits on bottom of skillet. Simmer sauce over medium heat, stirring frequently with heatproof spatula, until sauce is thick and glossy, and spatula leaves clear trail in sauce, about 4 minutes. Off heat, return chicken to skillet, and turn to coat thickly with sauce; set chicken pieces skinned-side up and spoon extra sauce over each piece to create thick coating. Place skillet in oven and cook until thickest parts of chicken breasts register 130 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 10 to 14 minutes. Set oven to broil and continue to cook until thickest parts of chicken breasts register 160 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to platter and let rest 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk to combine sauce in skillet and transfer to small bowl. Serve chicken, passing extra sauce separately.

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The Best Angel Food Cake

Sift both the cake flour and the granulated sugar before measuring to eliminate any lumps and ensure the lightest possible texture.

Serves 10 to 12 1 cup sifted cake flour (3 ounces)

1 1/2 cups sifted granulated sugar (10 1/2 ounces)

12 large egg whites (1 3/4 cups plus 2
tablespoons), at room temperature

1 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/4 teaspoon table salt

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1. Adjust an oven rack to the lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Have ready an ungreased large tube pan (9-inch diameter, 16-cup capacity), preferably with a removable bottom. If the pan bottom is not removable, line it with parchment or wax paper.

2. In a small bowl, whisk the flour with 3/4 cup sugar. Place remaining 3/4 cup sugar in another small bowl next to the mixer.

3. In the bowl of a standing mixer, or with a handheld mixer, beat egg whites at low speed until just broken up and beginning to froth. Add cream of tartar and salt and beat at medium speed until whites form very soft, billowy mounds. With the mixer still at medium speed, beat in 3/4 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until all sugar is added and whites are shiny and form soft peaks. Add vanilla, lemon juice, and almond extract and beat until just blended.

4. Place flour-sugar mixture in a sifter set over waxed paper. Sift flour-sugar mixture over egg whites about 3 tablespoons at a time, and gently fold it in, using a large rubber spatula. Sift any flour-sugar mixture that falls onto the paper back into the bowl with the whites.

5. Gently scrape batter into pan, smooth the top, and give pan a couple of raps on the counter to release any large air bubbles.

6. Bake until the cake is golden brown and the top springs back when pressed firmly, 50 to 60 minutes.

7. If cake pan has prongs around the rim for elevating the cake, invert pan onto them. If not, invert pan over the neck of a bottle or funnel so that air can circulate all around it. Let the cake cool completely, 2 to 3 hours.

8. To unmold, run a knife around edges, being careful not to separate the golden crust from the cake. Slide cake out of pan and cut the same way around removable bottom to release, or peel off parchment or wax paper, if used.

9. Place the cake, bottom-side up, on a platter. Cut slices by sawing gently with a serrated knife. Serve the cake the day it is made.

Chocolate Sour Cream Bundt Cake

Natural (or regular) cocoa gives the cake a fuller, more assertive chocolate flavor than does Dutch-processed cocoa. In addition, Dutch-processed cocoa will result in a compromised rise. The cake can be served with just a dusting of confectioners' sugar but is easily made more impressive with Tangy Whipped Cream and Lightly Sweetened Raspberries (recipes follow). The cake can be made a day in advance; wrap the cooled cake in plastic and store it at room temperature. Dust with confectioners' sugar just before serving.

Serves 12 to 14
Cake Release

1 tablespoon butter , melted

1 tablespoon cocoa

Cake

3/4 cup natural cocoa (2 1/4 ounces)

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate , chopped

1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (optional)

3/4 cup water (boiling)

1 cup sour cream , room temperature

1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (8 3/4

ounces)

1 teaspoon table salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

12 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks),
room temperature

2 cups packed light brown sugar (14 ounces)

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

5 large eggs , room temperature

confectioners' sugar for dusting

1. FOR THE PAN: Stir together butter and cocoa in small bowl until paste forms; using a pastry brush, coat all interior surfaces of standard 12-cup Bundt pan, see illustration below. (If mixture becomes too thick to brush on, microwave it for 10 to 20 seconds, or until warm and softened.) Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position; heat oven to 350 degrees.

2. FOR THE CAKE: Combine cocoa, chocolate, and espresso powder (if using) in medium heatproof bowl; pour boiling water over and whisk until smooth. Cool to room temperature; then whisk in sour cream. Whisk flour, salt, and baking soda in second bowl to combine.

3. In standing mixer fitted with flat beater, beat butter, sugar, and vanilla on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Reduce speed to medium and add eggs one at a time, mixing about 30 seconds after each addition and scraping down bowl with rubber spatula after first 2 additions. Reduce to medium-low speed (batter may appear separated); add about one third of flour mixture and half of chocolate/sour cream mixture and mix until just incorporated, about 20 seconds. Scrape bowl and repeat using half of remaining flour mixture and all of remaining chocolate mixture; add remaining flour mixture and beat until just incorporated, about 10 seconds. Scrape bowl and mix on medium-low until batter is thoroughly combined, about 30 seconds. Pour batter into prepared Bundt pan, being careful not to pour batter on sides of pan. Bake until wooden skewer inserted into center comes out with few crumbs attached, 45 to 50 minutes. Cool in pan 10 minutes, then invert cake onto parchment-lined wire rack; cool to room temperature, about 3 hours. Dust with confectioners' sugar, transfer to serving platter, and cut into wedges; serve with Tangy Whipped Cream and raspberries, if desired.

STEP BY STEP: Ensuring an Easy Release
A Bundt cake is attractive only if you get it out of the pan in one piece. A simple paste made from melted butter and cocoa powder and painted into the grooves of the pan with a pastry brush worked wonders in helping to release our chocolate Bundt cake. We much preferred this tidy method over the standard technique of greasing and flouring, which left an unsightly pasty white film on the cake's exterior.