Rich Pastry Crust

This is the kind of pie crust your grandmother knew and you don’t see in modern recipes. Half a cup of lard combined with a quarter cup of cold chicken fat (schmaltz) makes a savory pastry that’s both flakier and more flavorful than anything butter-based. It’s built specifically for savory pies like chicken pot pie or game bird pies, where the rendered chicken fat reinforces the filling’s flavor.

Lard does the heavy structural work. Its melting point and crystal structure produce noticeably flakier pastry than butter or shortening. Cold schmaltz adds chicken-y richness and helps the crust brown beautifully.

The pea-sized fat technique is what gives the crust its layers. Don’t cut the fat too small or you lose the flakes. Visible chunks of fat melt during baking and create steam pockets between layers of dough, producing the shattering texture that defines a great savory crust.

Pro Tips

• Keep both fats refrigerator-cold. Warm fat smears into the flour rather than staying in distinct chunks.
• Add water 1 tablespoon at a time and stop the moment the dough comes together. Over-hydrated dough turns tough.
• Chill the dough at least 30 minutes after forming the ball. Resting relaxes gluten and makes rolling easier.
• Save the chicken fat from your next roast chicken or buy schmaltz from a Jewish deli or specialty grocer.

Variations

• Use all lard if schmaltz is unavailable. The crust will still be excellent, just slightly less complex in flavor.
• Substitute duck fat for the chicken fat for a richer, gamier crust ideal for duck pot pie.
• Add 1 teaspoon of fresh chopped thyme to the dry ingredients for an herb-scented savory crust.