Roulo Me Filo

Roulo me filo is a Greek meat loaf wrapped in layers of buttered phyllo dough, and it’s far more elegant than that description suggests. Seasoned ground veal simmers with tomato and cinnamon until fragrant, gets layered with a creamy sauce of egg yolks, mizithra cheese, and nutmeg, and hard-boiled egg slices run through the center like a hidden surprise when you cut into each slice.

The cinnamon is distinctly Greek. It runs through so much of Greek meat cooking, adding a warm, sweet undertone that complements the veal without tasting like dessert. A whole stick simmered in the meat and then removed gives cleaner flavor than ground cinnamon, which can turn gritty and overpowering.

Building the phyllo base takes patience but no real skill. Lay the sheets one at a time, brushing each with melted butter, until you have a large, sturdy platform. The paper-wrapping trick for the first 35 minutes of baking is clever: it protects the filo from burning while the meat cooks through, then comes off for the final stretch so the pastry can crisp to a golden, shattering shell.

Chef Tips

• Keep unused phyllo covered with a damp towel while you work. It dries out in minutes and becomes brittle and impossible to fold.
• Taste the saltsa aspri (cheese sauce) before adding salt. Mizithra and kefalotyri are both naturally salty cheeses, and you may not need any extra.
• Use wide spatulas to transfer the finished loaf. Phyllo is fragile when hot, and a single spatula will crack the crust.

Variations

• Lamb version: Swap the ground veal for lamb for a richer, more assertive Greek flavor.
• Spinach layer: Add a thin layer of sautéed spinach between the meat and cheese sauce for color and extra nutrition.