Pineapple Squash

This is a beautifully thrifty recipe with British colonial roots, the kind of thing your grandmother would call a squash or cordial. Instead of throwing the pineapple peel and core in the bin, you simmer them for 30 minutes to extract every bit of tropical flavor, then strain and bottle the result as a sweet syrup that lasts for weeks.

A splash of lemon juice at the end keeps the syrup from tasting cloying and adds a tart edge that wakes up the pineapple. Mix a tablespoon or two with cold sparkling water for an instant tropical drink, or use it to flavor cocktails, glazes, or even a drizzle over ice cream.

Kitchen Tips

• Wash the pineapple thoroughly before peeling. The skin is what flavors the syrup, so any wax or dust on the surface ends up in your bottle.
• Press the cooked peel and core firmly through the strainer cloth. The pulp holds a surprising amount of flavored liquid, and you’ll lose half your yield if you don’t squeeze it out.
• Sterilize your bottles by running them through the dishwasher or boiling for 10 minutes. The syrup is sugar-heavy but wild yeasts can still spoil it in a dirty container.
• Store in the fridge for up to 6 weeks, or in a cool dark pantry for up to 3 weeks. Watch for cloudiness or off smells, which signal it’s time to discard.

Variations

• Add a thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, sliced, to the simmer for a spicy ginger-pineapple cordial.
• Throw in a couple of split vanilla beans or 2 sticks of cinnamon for a warmer, more complex syrup.
• Use the syrup as a base for piña colada cocktails or whisk into salad dressings for a tropical sweet-tart note.