Pheasants with Port Wine Sauce

Pheasant is a lean, gamey bird that punishes overcooking with dry, stringy meat, so this roast leans on two old tricks to keep it juicy. First, strips of bacon lie across the breast, barding the lean meat and basting it with smoky fat as it cooks. Second, frequent basting with a port-and-broth mixture keeps the surface moist and builds a glossy, savory color.

A rub of thyme, nutmeg, onion, and parsley seasons the birds before they go under the bacon.

The sweet, fruity port wine sauce served alongside is the classic partner for game, its richness playing beautifully against the lean meat, especially with a few grapes scattered on top.

The single most important tool here is a meat thermometer. Slide it into the thickest part of the breast or thigh without touching bone, and pull the birds the moment they hit temperature. Lean game waits for no one.

Chef Tips

• Bard the breast with bacon and baste often. Lean pheasant dries out fast without the extra fat.
• Use a meat thermometer placed away from the bone and pull the birds right on temperature, never past it.
• Let the pheasant rest before carving so the juices redistribute.
• Deglaze the roasting pan with a splash more port and broth to enrich the sauce with the browned drippings.

Variations

• Use the same method on Cornish hens or a small chicken.
• Stir a spoonful of red currant jelly into the port sauce for extra fruity depth.
• Swap the grapes for roasted figs or cherries as the garnish.