Peasant Soup

This is the soup that countless Italian and Provencal grandmothers have been pulling together with whatever the pantry offered. A pound of great northern beans, the standard mirepoix vegetables, two cans of tomatoes, and time. That’s the whole list. What turns those few ingredients into something memorable is the slow simmer, which gives the beans space to break down at the edges and thicken the broth into a creamy, almost stew-like body.

The quick-soak method at the start is the time-saver worth knowing. Instead of soaking overnight, bring the beans to a hard boil for 2 minutes, then cover and let them stand for an hour. The result is the same softened bean ready to cook, in about a quarter of the time. Add the bay leaves and aromatics with the second batch of water, not the soaking water. Used soaking water carries off bitter compounds you don’t want in the final pot.

Kitchen Tips

• Don’t salt the beans until they’re tender. Salt added too early toughens the skins and the beans take longer to cook.
• Skim the foam during the first 15 minutes of simmering. It carries off compounds that can make the broth bitter or gassy.
• Add a Parmesan rind to the simmer if you have one. It melts into the broth and adds umami depth that miso or anchovy could provide.
• Drizzle each bowl with a little olive oil at serving time. The fresh oil hit lifts the whole bowl.

Variations

• Stir in a handful of chopped fresh kale or escarole during the last 15 minutes for a heartier, greener soup.
• Add diced pancetta or bacon sauteed before the beans for a smoky depth.
• Top each bowl with grated Parmesan and a slice of crusty bread for the classic ribollita-style finish.