Linda's Olive Oil & Sauternes Cake

Two ingredients make this cake unusual: fruity olive oil in place of butter, and Sauternes, the honeyed French dessert wine, doing the work of milk or syrup. The wine brings apricot and dried-peach notes that play directly into the orange zest, while the olive oil gives the crumb a supple, slightly savory edge you won’t get from butter.

The structure is pure sponge technique. Twelve eggs separated, yolks beaten pale with sugar, whites whipped stiff with cream of tartar, and the two folded together gently. There’s no leavener besides those whites. Deflate them and the cake falls flat.

Because the batter carries so much air, it bakes fast. Watch for a top that springs back when pressed and pulls just away from the pan edges.

Pro Tips

• Room-temperature eggs whip to greater volume. Pull them out 30 minutes before you start.
• Fold in thirds: one-third of the whites first to lighten the yolk base, then the rest in two gentle additions. Use a flexible spatula, cutting down the center and sweeping up the sides.
• Sauternes is pricey, but any late-harvest or dessert wine with apricot and honey character works here. Moscato will do in a pinch.
• Don’t grease the pan sides if you want the maximum rise. The batter needs to grip the pan walls as it climbs.

Variations

• Swap orange zest for lemon zest and use a Riesling spätlese for a sharper profile.
• Dust the finished cake with powdered sugar and serve with macerated peaches or apricots.
• Fold a tablespoon of finely chopped candied citron into the batter for an Italian-style twist.