Hickory Nut Cake

Hickory nut cake is one of those quietly stubborn American heritage recipes that survives because it’s worth surviving. Hickory nuts, a closer cousin to pecans than walnuts, were a foraged staple in Appalachia and the Midwest before grocery store nuts became the norm. They have a deeper, more buttery flavor with a slight wildness that makes them a treat in baking.

The cake comes together with a few smart moves. Beating the egg whites separately and folding them in at the end gives the crumb a tender, almost springy lightness, while a single ounce of unsweetened chocolate adds depth without making the cake taste chocolatey. Maraschino cherries bring color and a candied sweetness that plays nicely against the toasted nuts.

Once cooled, the cake gets a fluffy buttercream made with both shortening and butter, flavored with almond and vanilla extracts. Top with hickory nut halves for a finish that says someone in this house actually knows how to bake.

Pro Tips

• Toast the hickory nuts in a dry pan for 5 minutes before chopping. The flavor intensifies and the oils come alive.
• Drain and pat the maraschino cherries thoroughly. Excess syrup can streak the batter and weigh it down.
• Fold the beaten egg whites in three additions, working gently. Aggressive mixing deflates them and flattens the cake.
• If you can’t find hickory nuts, pecans are the closest substitute. Black walnuts work too if you want a bolder, more rustic flavor.

Variations

• Stir in a half cup of mini chocolate chips to push the dessert toward a cherry-chocolate flavor.
• Swap the buttercream for cream cheese frosting for a tangier counterpoint to the sweet cherries.
• Replace the maraschinos with chopped dried tart cherries soaked in bourbon for an adult, less candied version.