Ham Mousse with Peaches

This is elegant entertaining food from a time when savory mousses were the height of dinner party sophistication. Ground ham gets blended in a food processor with egg yolks, Dijon mustard, whole eggs, milk, cream, port wine, and tomato paste into a silky custard that bakes in individual ramekins set in a water bath.

The water bath is what makes the texture work. It insulates the custard from direct oven heat, so the mousse sets gently into something smooth and spoonable rather than rubbery. After cooling completely, each mousse unmolds onto a plate like a small, rosy-pink savory flan.

The garnish is where the flavor contrasts come alive. Blanched fresh peaches sliced thin bring sweetness, pickled watermelon rind adds a tangy crunch, and toasted salted almonds give a nutty, savory finish. Each element plays off the salty, mustardy ham mousse in a different way.

Chef Tips

• Process the ham mixture until completely smooth. Any grainy bits will stand out in the delicate custard texture
• Line the roasting pan with a double layer of newspaper before adding the ramekins. This insulates the bottom and prevents the custards from cooking too fast on the underside
• The mousse is done when just set, still slightly jiggly in the center. Overbaked mousse becomes dry and grainy
• Cool completely before unmolding. Warm mousse won’t hold its shape on the plate

Variations

• Use smoked turkey or chicken in place of ham for a lighter, more delicate mousse
• Substitute brandy for port wine for a slightly different warmth
• Serve with a small salad of arugula and shaved Parmesan for a more modern plating