Baked Clams Casino (Bob Stein)

Clams Casino is one of those Italian-American classics that never goes out of style. Littleneck clams on the half shell get mounded with olive oil-moistened bread crumbs seasoned with garlic and paprika, then topped with a piece of bacon and baked until everything crisps up together.

The bacon renders its fat down into the bread crumbs as it cooks, turning the topping from dry and crumbly into something golden, savory, and almost crunchy. Twenty-five minutes in the oven and the bacon is crisp, the crumbs are toasted, and the clam underneath is tender and briny.

Serving them on a bed of heated rock salt keeps the shells stable on the plate and holds the heat. A squeeze of lemon right before eating cuts through the richness.

Kitchen Tips

• Use soft, fresh bread crumbs, not the dry Italian-style kind from a can. Fresh crumbs absorb the olive oil and bacon fat better and bake into a lighter topping.
• Cut each bacon slice into quarters so every clam gets a piece sized right to cover the topping without overwhelming the clam.
• Make sure the clams are firmly on their half shells in the baking dish. Wobbly clams spill their juices and the topping slides off.

Variations

• Add finely diced red or green bell pepper to the bread crumb mixture for a more traditional Casino topping.
• Swap bacon for pancetta for a slightly different, more Italian pork flavor.
• Finish under the broiler for the last 2 minutes if you want an extra-crispy, browned crust on top.