Pimiento Cheese

Old-School Southern Pimiento Cheese

Most pimiento cheese recipes you’ll see today get bound with a glop of mayo. This one heads back further, to the cooked-dressing tradition where a quick stovetop custard of egg, sugar, and vinegar takes the place of the jar.

The payoff is a tangier, sweeter spread with body that mayo can’t match. The cooked dressing emulsifies into something between a pudding and a vinaigrette, coating each shred of cheddar without weighing it down.

Sharp orange cheddar is the standard, and grating it yourself off the block makes a real difference. Pre-shredded bags are coated in starch that keeps the strands from clumping but also stops them from melting into the dressing the way fresh-grated does.

Serve it on white bread cut into triangles for a proper tea sandwich, on celery sticks, or with crackers as a dip. Chill at least an hour before serving so the flavors meld.

Pro Tips

• Whisk constantly while cooking the dressing. Egg curdles fast over direct heat, and a few stirring breaks turn it scrambled.
• Cool the dressing completely before mixing with the cheese. Warm dressing melts the cheddar into a greasy slick.
• Drain the pimientos well and pat dry. Excess liquid thins the spread and dulls the color.
• Use full-fat cheese. Reduced-fat varieties seize up and turn rubbery in cold spreads.
• Make it at least 4 hours ahead. Pimiento cheese is one of those things that gets better overnight.

Variations

• Add a teaspoon of grated onion or a pinch of cayenne for heat.
• Stir in chopped pickled jalapeños for a Texas-style kick.
• Mix in crumbled crispy bacon for a smoky, salty version.