Mulsum

Mulsum is the drink Romans served before dinner two thousand years ago, and you can make it tonight in less time than it takes to open a second bottle. White wine and honey. That’s the whole list.

The Romans took mulsum seriously. It opened formal banquets, was considered a digestive aid, and Roman doctors prescribed it for everything from sluggish guests to upset stomachs. The high status came partly from the cost (honey was expensive) and partly from the genuine pleasure of sweetened, herbaceous wine in a culture that drank wine warm, watered, and often spiced.

Use a dry white that has some character: a Riesling, Vermentino, or Picpoul. The honey will sweeten it considerably, so starting with a sweet wine produces a syrupy, cloying drink. Refrigerate for at least a few hours; the flavor genuinely improves over a few days.

Serve in small glasses as an aperitif or with sharp cheeses, salty almonds, and cured meats.

Kitchen Tips

• Use raw, unfiltered honey for the most complex flavor. Industrial blends taste flat in this two-ingredient drink.
• Warm the honey for 10 seconds in the microwave before adding to make it dissolve into the cold wine more easily.
• Strain after a few days if you used a thick honey with comb fragments; particles can settle and look unappealing.
• Serve in small portions. This is sweet wine, meant for sipping slowly.

Variations

• Add a few black peppercorns and a sprig of thyme for a more authentically Roman version.
• Stir in a teaspoon of crushed coriander seeds for a spiced mulsum.
• Use mead-honey or wildflower honey for distinct floral notes.