Laulau

Laulau is one of the most traditional dishes in Hawaiian cooking, and it’s beautifully simple. Pork shoulder and salmon wrapped in luau (taro) leaves, bundled in ti leaves, and steamed for hours until the meat is falling-apart tender and the greens have melted into a rich, earthy wrapper.

The luau leaves need proper preparation before wrapping. Strip the outer skin from the stems and leaf veins. This step prevents the itchy, scratchy throat sensation that raw taro leaves cause. Take the time to do it thoroughly.

Soak the fish in water for about 70 minutes before assembling. This draws out excess salt (especially if using salted butterfish, which is traditional) and ensures the finished laulau isn’t overly salty.

The 3 to 4 hours of steaming is what transforms everything. The pork fat renders into the luau leaves, the fish breaks down into a buttery richness, and the leaves absorb all those meaty juices. You can’t rush this.

Kitchen Tips

• Tie the ti leaf bundles securely. Loose wraps fall apart during the long steam and the filling spills into the steamer.
• If you can’t find luau leaves, spinach is a workable substitute. It won’t have the same earthy flavor, but the texture works.
• Check your steamer water level every hour and add more boiling water as needed. Running dry ruins the laulau and your pot.

Variations

• Use salted butterfish instead of salmon for the most traditional Hawaiian preparation.
• Add a few pieces of chicken thigh alongside the pork for a mixed-meat version.
• Wrap in banana leaves instead of ti leaves if ti leaves aren’t available in your area.