Genoise

A Classic French Sponge Built on Whipped Whole Eggs

Genoise is the workhorse of French pastry. Unlike American butter cakes, the rise comes entirely from air whipped into warm eggs, with no chemical leaveners involved. That structure makes it firm enough to slice into thin layers, dry enough to soak up syrup or liqueur, and neutral enough to pair with almost any filling.

The warming step matters. Whisking the eggs and sugar over a double boiler until lukewarm dissolves the sugar and relaxes the proteins, so the mixture whips faster and triples in volume more reliably. You’re looking for a pale, ivory ribbon that holds its shape briefly when the whisk lifts.

Fold the cake flour in two stages, sifting it over the surface and using a wide spatula to cut down through the batter. The melted butter goes in last, folded quickly so it doesn’t deflate the foam. Move fast: every aggressive stir kills loft.

Pro Tips

• Use room-temperature eggs. Cold eggs whip slower and trap less air.
• Sift the cake flour twice. Lumps refuse to incorporate without overmixing.
• Drizzle the melted butter around the edge of the bowl rather than pouring into the center. Heavy fat sinks fast in airy batter.
• Tap the filled pans once on the counter before baking to release any large bubbles.

Variations

• Add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract or a tablespoon of orange zest with the butter.
• Swap an ounce of cake flour for cocoa powder for a chocolate genoise.
• Brush cooled layers with a flavored simple syrup (rum, kirsch, or coffee) before assembling tortes.