Veal & Mushroom Ragout

This veal ragout builds flavor in stages, and every step matters. Bacon renders first, then its fat becomes the cooking medium for leeks, mushrooms, and flour-coated veal cubes, each browned separately to develop a deep fond on the bottom of the skillet.

That fond is where the magic lives. When the dry vermouth hits the hot pan, it lifts all those caramelized bits into the braising liquid. Everything goes into a casserole together and bakes until the veal turns fork-tender and the sauce thickens into a glossy, savory gravy.

Artichoke hearts go in for just the last 15 minutes so they warm through without turning mushy. They add a slightly tangy, almost nutty note that pairs beautifully with the earthy mushrooms and sweet leeks. Crispy bacon bits and fresh parsley scattered on top at serving bring back the crunch and color.

Serve this over rice with a little extra sauce from the casserole. The braising liquid is too flavorful to leave behind.

Pro Tips

• Brown the veal in batches, no more than a third at a time. Crowding the pan steams the meat instead of searing it, and you lose that crucial browning.
• Rinse the leeks thoroughly after slicing. Sand hides between the layers and will ruin the dish if you skip this step.
• Use whole mushrooms if they’re small, or halve larger ones. Sliced mushrooms lose their texture during the long braise.
• The microwave option works but produces less browning. The oven method gives a richer result.

Variations

• Beef version: Substitute beef chuck cubes for the veal. Increase the braising time by 15 minutes.
• White wine swap: Use a dry white wine instead of vermouth if that’s what you have open.
• Root vegetable addition: Add diced carrots or turnips with the leeks for a more substantial stew.