Whole Wheat Soda Bread

Soda bread is the bread for the impatient baker. No yeast, no proofing, no rise time. The leavening happens the instant baking soda meets the acidic buttermilk, so this loaf is in the oven before most yeast doughs have finished their first knead.

The whole wheat version is the more traditional Irish style. White flour soda bread is a more recent, lighter take. This recipe uses a blend, two parts whole wheat to one part white, plus bran and wheat germ for the deep, nutty character that the original brown bread is known for.

Work the dough as little as humanly possible. Soda breads turn tough fast because overworking develops gluten that should stay dormant in this kind of quick bread. A minute of gentle kneading on a floured board is plenty. The dough should be shaggy, slightly sticky, and forgiving.

The cross slashed on top isn’t decoration. It opens up the loaf so the steam can escape and the center cooks through evenly. Irish lore says it also lets the fairies out, which is a charming reason to keep doing it.

Pro Tips

• Use real buttermilk, not the milk-and-vinegar substitute. The thicker acid kick gives the bread its proper tangy lift.
• Don’t open the oven during the first 30 minutes of baking. The blast of cold air collapses the rise.
• The hollow knock on the bottom is the doneness test that never lies. Bread will sound dense and thudding if it needs more time.
• Cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before slicing. Hot soda bread tastes gummy.

Variations

• Stir in a handful of raisins or currants for traditional Irish raisin bread, sometimes called spotted dog.
• Add a tablespoon of caraway seeds for the American Irish-pub style.
• Brush the top with melted butter and dust with rolled oats before baking for a rustic crust.