Riverside Kedgeree
Submitted by Boni
Riverside kedgeree flakes cooked salmon or trout into brown rice with buttered cucumber matchsticks, watercress, and young peas. Light, modern English riverbank classic for spring or summer.
YIELD
4 servingsPREP
15 minCOOK
40 minREADY
55 minKedgeree is the Anglo-Indian breakfast that British colonials brought home and kept on the brunch table for over a century. This Riverside version updates the heavy curry-and-egg classic into something lighter and greener: flaked salmon or trout, brown rice, peeled cucumber, watercress, and young peas, all bound with butter rather than cream.
The cucumber treatment is the unexpected move. Peeled and seeded, cut to matchsticks, then salted and lightly sugared with tarragon vinegar to draw out water. After 40 minutes (or all day if you have it), the cucumber drains and pats dry, ready to be warmed in butter without turning watery.
Layering the fish on top of the warmed cucumber and steaming gently keeps the fillets in big, distinct flakes instead of breaking up. Watercress pulsed to green flecks in a food processor goes in last with the peas and rice, seasoning the dish with peppery brightness.
Pro Tips
- Use wild salmon or river trout. Farmed trout is too soft and falls apart instead of flaking cleanly.
- Cook the rice in fish stock if you have it. Water works, but stock builds layered flavor.
- Don’t stir once the fish hits the cucumber. Shake the pan instead so the flakes stay intact.
- Season generously at the end. Brown rice and cucumber both need bold salt to wake up the flavors.
Variations
- Swap brown rice for basmati for a lighter, more traditional texture.
- Add a sprinkle of toasted curry powder for a nod to the original Anglo-Indian version.
- Top with sliced soft-boiled eggs for a more substantial brunch presentation.
Ingredients
Directions
*Note: Salmon, sea trout or river trout may be used (farmed trout is unsuitable - its texture is too soft).
Peel and seed the cucumber and cut the flesh into pieces no larger than matchsticks.
Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon each salt and caster sugar and 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar.
Toss lightly and set aside for at least 40 minutes, or all day if you prefer, to draw out some of the cucumber juices.
Drain well and pat dry.
Cook the rice in double its volume of boiling salted water or, better still, in fish stock.
It will take about 35 minutes to become tender.
Towards the end of this time cook the vegetables.
Boil the peas in a little lightly sugared water.
Melt the butter in a flameproof casserole, add the sticks of cucumber and cook over medium-low heat for 2 minutes, just stirring occasionally.
Break the skinned and boned fish into big flaky chunks.
Lay the fish on top of the cucumber - don’t stir it in.
Cover the casserole and reduce heat as low as possible.
Leave to cook, just shaking the casserole occasionally, until the cucumber is tender and the fish is well heated through - 4 minutes or so.
Meanwhile put the watercress into a food-processor and reduce it to green flecks.
To assemble the kedgeree, add the prepared watercress, peas and cooked rice to the buttery fish and cucumber mixture.
Immediately draw the casserole away from the heat and season it generously with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Toss the ingredients gently but thoroughly to mix them well and serve straight away with a large fresh green salad, or with a tomato salad if you prefer
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