Rigatoni with a Thick Mushroom Sauce

This is the mushroom sauce that home cooks who don’t think they like mushrooms end up making on repeat. The trick is shredding whole portobellos on the largest holes of a box grater straight into the pan. The mushrooms break down into something almost meaty, building body and depth without flour or cream.

Sauteing the shredded mushrooms with garlic and a pinch of crushed red pepper drives off all the water (about 10 minutes of patient stirring). Once they’re dry and concentrated, chicken broth and a half bouillon cube go in to amplify the savory backbone. The high heat reduces everything into a thick, glossy sauce that clings to every ridge of the rigatoni.

Fresh Italian parsley folded in off the heat brightens the whole dish. A snow of grated Parmesan at the end melts into the sauce instead of clumping on top.

Chef Tips

• Don’t skip the bouillon cube. It deepens the umami without making the sauce taste like canned soup.
• Use a nonstick skillet so the shredded mushrooms don’t stick during the long evaporation.
• Let the mushrooms sit undisturbed for the first few minutes to release water; constant stirring slows it down.
• Reserve a half cup of pasta water before draining. A splash loosens the sauce if it tightens up too much.

Variations

• Mix in a few dried porcini (rehydrated) for an even deeper, woodsy flavor.
• Stir in a tablespoon of mascarpone or creme fraiche at the end for a richer, creamier finish.
• Top with toasted pine nuts and a drizzle of truffle oil for a fancier plate.