Ricotta Gnocchi

Spinach ricotta gnocchi, known across Tuscany as gnudi ("naked"), are the famous dumplings that taste like ravioli filling without the pasta wrapper. The name dates to a Renaissance kitchen joke: stripped of their pasta clothing, the cheese-and-spinach mixture stands naked on the plate.

Unlike potato gnocchi, these have no potato at all, just ricotta as the binder.

The technique relies on getting every last drop of water out of the cooked spinach. Pressing the thawed spinach by hand until it’s nearly dry is the single most important step in the recipe. Wet spinach leads to wet dough, which falls apart in the poaching water and gives gnudi their reputation for being hard to make.

Do this step right and the rest is straightforward.

The gentle poach (a steady simmer rather than a hard boil) is what keeps the gnudi from breaking apart in the water. Working in two batches gives each ball room to float free without crowding.

Serve as the Italians do: with melted butter and a snowfall of Parmigiano-Reggiano, or with a simple tomato sauce that lets the dumplings shine.

Pro Tips

• Drain the ricotta for an hour in a fine sieve before mixing. Wet ricotta means soggy gnudi.
• Test one gnudi first to check that the dough holds. Add a tablespoon more breadcrumbs if it falls apart.
• Roll in flour just before poaching, not in advance. The flour absorbs moisture and gets gummy if it sits too long.
• Save a cup of the poaching water; it’s perfect for loosening tomato sauce or a butter pan-sauce.

Variations

• Try the baked variation at 375°F (190°C) for a crispy outside and tender center, almost like a soufflé.
• Stir in a tablespoon of pesto with the spinach for an herbaceous boost.
• Serve with brown butter and crispy fried sage leaves for a classic Italian preparation.