Pumpernickel Bread

Real pumpernickel starts a day ahead with a rye flour starter. Rye flour mixed with water sits all day, then gets fed with all-purpose flour in the evening. By the next morning, that starter has developed the tangy, slightly sour flavor that gives pumpernickel its character.

The dough itself combines the rye starter with whole wheat flour, bread flour, wheat germ, bread crumbs, and caramel (or bitter chocolate, or cocoa mixed with water). That caramel is what gives pumpernickel its signature dark color. Without it, the bread would be gray-brown instead of deep, rich mahogany.

Eight to ten minutes of kneading develops enough gluten from the bread flour to give the loaves structure, while the rye and whole wheat contribute dense chew and complex, earthy flavor.

Slash the tops with a razor blade before baking. The cuts let steam escape and create the rustic, cracked crust that defines artisan-style pumpernickel.

Chef Tips

• The rye starter needs a full day to develop flavor. Don’t skip this step or rush it. A short-fermented starter tastes flat.
• Add bread flour gradually until the dough is moderately firm. Too much flour makes the bread dense and dry.
• Start at high heat to get oven spring and a crispy crust. The loaves may need up to 45 minutes depending on size.
• Store wrapped in a towel for 2 days, or slice and freeze for longer keeping.

Variations

• Caraway pumpernickel: Knead in caraway seeds for a classic deli-style flavor.
• Dark cocoa version: Use Dutch-process cocoa mixed with water instead of caramel for an even deeper color with a hint of bitterness.