Calas

Calas are one of New Orleans’ oldest street foods. These yeast-risen rice fritters were sold by Creole women of African descent in the French Quarter, calling out “Belles calas! Tout chauds!" (Beautiful calas! Very hot!) to morning crowds. The tradition stretches back to the 1700s, and this recipe keeps it alive.

The process starts the night before. Hot cooked rice gets mashed, mixed with dissolved yeast, and left to rise overnight. By morning, the yeast has fermented the rice into a slightly tangy, bubbly batter. Eggs, flour, sugar, salt, and nutmeg get beaten in, then the batter rises again for 30 minutes before frying.

That double rise is what gives calas their distinctive texture: airy and light inside with a crisp, golden shell. Single-rise fritters would be denser and more biscuit-like. The yeast fermentation also develops a subtle tang that pure baking powder fritters can’t achieve.

Drop by tablespoonfuls into oil at 360°F (182°C) and cook for about three minutes until golden all around. A dusting of powdered sugar while they’re still warm is the only finishing touch they need.

Kitchen Tips

• Mash the rice while it’s still hot. Cold rice resists mashing and leaves lumpy batter.
• Keep the overnight rise in a warm spot around 85°F (29°C). A cold kitchen will slow the yeast and give you flat fritters.
• Test your oil temperature before frying the whole batch. One test fritter tells you if the heat is right.
• Serve immediately. Calas lose their crispness quickly as they cool.

Variations

• Add a teaspoon of vanilla extract to the batter for a more fragrant fritter.
• Drizzle with cane syrup instead of powdered sugar for a more Louisiana-specific finish.
• Fold in a tablespoon of orange zest for a citrus-scented version.