One Hour Calamari in Umido with Ramp Bruchetta

Calamari in umido means squid braised “in sauce," and this Italian approach is the opposite of quick-fried rings. Three pounds of calamari simmer for a full hour in a garlicky tomato-wine sauce until the squid turns butter-tender and the sauce thickens into something that begs for bread.

Ten whole peeled garlic cloves and crushed hot chilis give the braising liquid a bold, spicy backbone. The white wine adds acidity that keeps the rich tomato sauce from feeling heavy. As the calamari cooks, it releases its own briny liquid into the pot, building layers of seafood flavor.

The grilled ramp bruschetta served alongside is a seasonal touch that makes this dish special. Wild ramps wilted on the grill, chopped and tossed with olive oil and fresh marjoram, then spooned onto grilled country bread.

Pro Tips

• Check the calamari for any remaining cartilage before cutting. Even one small piece ruins the texture of a bite.
• Keep the simmer at a steady, gentle bubble. Too high and the squid toughens before it has a chance to break down and turn tender.
• Ramps are only available in early spring. If you can’t find them, grilled scallions with a bit of garlic make a reasonable substitute.
• Serve in wide bowls with the bruschetta balanced on top so it soaks up the sauce.

Variations

• Add a can of cannellini beans in the last 15 minutes for a heartier, more substantial stew.
• Use baby octopus instead of calamari for a similar braised seafood dish with a chewier texture.
• Toss the finished calamari and sauce with cooked pasta for a saucy seafood primo.