Horn & Harart's Macaroni & Cheese

Horn & Hardart’s automat was a New York City institution, and their mac and cheese was the dish people lined up for. This is that recipe: a roux-based cheddar sauce with a dash of white pepper and cayenne, tossed with elbow macaroni and canned tomatoes, then baked until the top turns golden brown.

The tomatoes are the surprise ingredient that made this version famous. Chopped and stirred into the cheese sauce with a teaspoon of sugar, they add a subtle acidity and sweetness that keeps the richness from becoming one-note. It’s a small touch that separates this from every other baked mac.

The sauce is intentionally loose before baking. Three cups of milk to one tablespoon each of butter and flour means a thinner bechamel that the pasta absorbs as it bakes, creating a creamy, saucy result rather than a stiff casserole.

Kitchen Tips

• Stir the sauce constantly for the full 8 to 10 minutes while it thickens. A roux with this ratio of milk to flour needs patience and attention.
• Drain the canned tomatoes well before adding. Excess liquid thins the sauce too much.
• Use a sharp cheddar for the best flavour. Mild cheddar melts well but tastes flat.
• Don’t overcook the macaroni before baking. It continues to soften in the oven. Cook it just to al dente.

Variations

• Top with buttered breadcrumbs before baking for a crunchier crust.
• Add a layer of crispy bacon bits on top for a loaded version.
• Stir in a spoonful of Dijon mustard for a sharper, tangier cheese sauce.