Pistou

Pistou is the Provencal answer to pesto, and the differences matter. No pine nuts, and in this vegan version no cheese either, just fresh basil, garlic, and good olive oil worked into a vivid green paste. What you get is a purer, grassier hit of basil and garlic, since nothing rich is there to mute them.

Traditionally it gets pounded in a mortar, which bruises the basil and releases far more aroma than a blade ever will, though a quick pulse in the food processor works when you’re short on time. This sauce is the soul of soupe au pistou, the Nicoise vegetable soup it gets stirred into right before serving.

Spoon it over pasta, swirl it through a bowl of white beans, or slather it on grilled bread.

Kitchen Tips

• Use a mortar and pestle if you have one; pounding releases more basil oil than chopping and keeps the color vivid.
• Add the olive oil last in a slow stream so the sauce emulsifies instead of splitting.
• Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface before storing to stop the basil oxidizing and turning brown.

Variations

• Stir in a spoonful of tomato paste for the classic Provencal red pistou.
• Fold in a handful of toasted walnuts or almonds if you want more body without bringing back dairy.