Tavern Biscuits

Tavern biscuits hail from the colonial American kitchen, the kind of treat that would have lived in a tin on a tavern bar in 18th-century Virginia. They sit somewhere between a sweet biscuit, a shortbread, and a scone: barely sweet, gently spiced with nutmeg and mace, and built on flour, butter, and milk.

The technique is straightforward but rewards a light hand. Sift the flour with the nutmeg first so the spice distributes evenly, then cut in cold butter until the mixture looks mealy. Add the milk, sugar, and mace last, knead just enough to bring the dough together, and roll it about a quarter to a half inch thick. Cut into small rounds and bake hot until the tops are pale gold.

Serve them barely warm with butter and jam, or alongside a cup of strong black tea. They’re equally at home next to country ham at a Sunday brunch.

Pro Tips

• Keep the butter cold and work fast. Warm butter melts into the flour and gives you a tough biscuit instead of a tender one.
• Don’t over-knead. Mix just until the dough holds together; extra kneading develops gluten and makes them dense.
• The hot oven is intentional. It sets the outside quickly so the centers stay tender.
• Store cooled biscuits in a tin with a piece of parchment between layers. They keep for several days and actually firm up nicely, which is exactly what an old tavern biscuit should do.

Variations

• Add a teaspoon of grated lemon zest to the dough for a brighter, slightly more modern version.
• Swap half the flour for whole wheat for a nuttier, more rustic bite.
• Brush the tops with milk and sprinkle with coarse sugar before baking for a sparkly, sweeter finish.