Pasta with Feta & Bitter Greens

The beauty of this vegetarian pasta is how feta does all the sauce work. Crumbled into the hot, wilted greens, it softens and breaks down into a creamy, briny coating that clings to every piece of penne. No cream, no butter, no béchamel.

Start the onions early and give them a full 10 minutes (or longer) in olive oil. You want them soft and sweet, not browned. That sweetness is what balances the bitterness of the greens and the saltiness of the feta.

Bitter greens like escarole, dandelion, mustard greens, or broccoli rabe all work here. The bitterness is the point. It cuts through the richness of the cheese and olive oil, keeping each bite interesting rather than one-note.

Kitchen Tips

• Use a large skillet or wok. Eight cups of raw greens is a mountain, but they’ll cook down to a fraction of that volume.
• Crumble the feta while the greens are still hot so it melts into a thick, saucy consistency. Cold feta just sits in chunks.
• Save a cup of pasta cooking water before draining. A splash loosens the sauce if it gets too thick when you toss in the penne.
• Finish with freshly grated Parmesan at the table for a second layer of salty, nutty cheese flavor.

Variations

• Add toasted pine nuts or walnuts for crunch and richness.
• Toss in halved cherry tomatoes with the greens for a pop of sweetness and color.
• Use goat cheese instead of feta for a milder, creamier tang.