Midwest Chili

Midwest chili leans away from Texas purism and into the comforting, bean-forward, tomato-rich style that turns up at church suppers and football tailgates from Ohio to Iowa. Ground beef chuck goes straight into a heavy pot with onion and garlic, broken up with a fork rather than seared first, building the cooked-down, tender-meat texture this style is known for.

Ground chile and cumin bloom in the rendered fat before any liquid hits the pot, which is the difference between flat chili and one with real depth. The beans go in last so they hold their shape through the final half-hour simmer instead of breaking down into mush.

Kitchen Tips

• Drain off most but not all of the rendered beef fat before adding spices. A little fat carries the chile flavor; too much makes the chili greasy.
• Mash the canned tomatoes with a fork while they cook so they break down into the sauce instead of floating as chunks.
• Taste before adding the beans. The seasoning should be slightly bolder than you want at the end, since the beans dilute the flavor.
• Make a day ahead. Chili almost always tastes better the next day after the spices settle.

Variations

• Swap pinto beans for kidney beans or a mix of pinto and black beans.
• Add a square of dark chocolate or a tablespoon of cocoa for a deeper, slightly bitter Cincinnati lean.
• Stir in a chopped chipotle in adobo for a smokier finish without changing the heat much.