Veal Chops Italienne

This is a 1970s microwave-era classic, but the flavors do not apologize. Thick-cut veal chops get a hard sear in a garlicky skillet, then finish in a quick tomato-oregano-red wine sauce with a parmesan crust melted on top.

The two-step method (sear first, then microwave-finish) is actually clever cooking. The stovetop sear builds the browned crust that a microwave can never give you, and the microwave then gently heats the chops through in the sauce without drying them out. If microwave feels retro, finish in a 375°F (190°C) oven for 10 to 12 minutes instead.

Veal is a lean, delicate meat and lives close to the line between tender and overcooked. Watch for an internal temperature of 145°F (63°C) for medium, with a hint of pink inside. Anything above 155°F (68°C) and you lose the silkiness that makes veal worth the price.

A teaspoon of sugar in the tomato sauce is not optional. Canned tomato sauce is acidic, and that pinch of sugar rounds the edges without making the dish sweet. Italian grandmothers have been doing this for a hundred years.

Parmesan on top, melted in the last minute, gives you that salty, nutty finish that ties the tomato sauce to the meat.

Kitchen Tips

• Use veal rib or loin chops, cut at least 1 inch thick. Thinner chops overcook in 30 seconds flat.
• Pat the chops bone-dry with paper towels before searing. Wet meat steams and refuses to brown.
• Drink the same red wine you cook with. A simple Chianti or Sangiovese works great here. Skip cooking wine.
• Freshly grated parmesan melts smoother than pre-grated. Anti-caking agents in bagged cheese make a grainy finish.

Variations

• Add ¼ cup sliced mushrooms to the sauce before microwaving for an earthy, umami boost.
• Finish with a handful of fresh basil torn over the top right before serving.
• Swap veal for pork chops if veal is out of budget. Same technique, same timing.