Old-Time Country Ham with Redeye Gravy

Old-time country ham with redeye gravy is the breakfast plate that built the Appalachian South. Salty, smoky country ham sliced thick, fried in cast iron, then deglazed with strong black coffee and boiling water for a thin, sharp gravy unlike any other in American cooking.

The overnight soak is the step that takes country ham from inedibly salty to perfectly seasoned. Cold water for 6 to 8 hours pulls out enough of the cured salt to make the ham pleasant to eat without washing away the deep cured flavor entirely. Skip this step at your peril. Genuine country ham is salt-cured aggressively, far more than supermarket city ham, and unsoaked it will pucker your jaw shut.

The redeye gravy is what mythologizes this dish. Legend says President Andrew Jackson asked his cook for gravy made with coffee strong as his red eyes after drinking. Whether the story is true or apocryphal, the technique stuck. Boiling water hits the hot skillet, lifts the fond, and the addition of fresh-brewed coffee cuts through the salty ham fat with a bitter edge that somehow tastes exactly right.

Use strong, freshly brewed coffee. Old or weak coffee makes flat gravy.

Pour the gravy over the ham and serve right away with grits, biscuits, or both. The gravy thickens slightly as it cools, which is part of its charm.

Pro Tips

• Don’t add salt or seasonings to the gravy. The ham fat carries enough salt for the entire dish.
• Use a heavy cast iron skillet, not nonstick. The fond that builds up on cast iron is what makes the gravy.
• Fry only 2 to 3 slices at a time. Crowding the pan steams the ham instead of frying it.
• Save extra rendered ham fat in a small jar. Use it to fry eggs the next morning for a perfect Southern breakfast.

Variations

• Add 1 teaspoon of brown sugar to the gravy if you find it too sharp.
• Splash in 1 tablespoon of bourbon at the end of deglazing for a Kentucky-style finish.
• Serve over grits or biscuits to soak up the redeye gravy.