Buttermilk Kentucky Biscuits

There’s a reason Southern biscuits get scored, not separated, before they hit the oven. Kentucky buttermilk biscuits bake snug against each other so the sides stay soft and pillowy while the tops get golden. Pull them apart at the table for that hot-from-the-oven steam.

Cold butter is everything. Work it into the flour with a pastry blender until you see big crumbs and pea-sized chunks; those are the pockets of fat that puff into flaky layers in the oven. Warm hands turn butter to grease, and grease bakes into a brick.

Knead briefly, just enough to bring the dough together. A few folds, no more. Overworking develops gluten and you’ll end up with biscuits hard enough to break a window.

Roll into a square, score into twelve, and bake at 400°F (200°C) until the tops turn deep gold. Brush with melted butter the moment they come out.

Serve hot with sorghum, honey butter, or a slab of country ham.

Kitchen Tips

• Freeze the butter for 15 minutes before cutting in; it grates beautifully into the flour and stays cold longer
• Use buttermilk straight from the fridge to keep the dough cool and the rise tall
• Use a sharp knife to cut the squares all the way through (without separating them); a dull knife crushes the edges and stops the rise
• No buttermilk on hand? Stir a tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice into regular milk and rest five minutes

Variations

• Stir in shredded sharp cheddar and chopped chives for a savory cheese biscuit
• Brush the tops with garlic butter instead of plain after baking
• Sprinkle with flaky salt and cracked black pepper before the oven for a peppered biscuit