Fattigmann

Fattigmann translates to “poor man” in Norwegian, a charming misnomer for a cookie that calls for six egg yolks, two cups of cream, and enough lard to fry a small army. The name likely nodded at how this pastry could use up pantry staples cheaply, and it became a fixture of Scandinavian Christmas cookie platters across Norway, Sweden, and the Midwestern states settled by their emigrants.

The dough is rich, yellow, and tender. Egg yolks beaten with sugar until pale hold the structure, cream adds luxurious moisture, and a pinch of cardamom (or cinnamon if you prefer) gives the warm backbone traditional to Nordic baking.

Traditionally the rolled dough is cut into diamonds with a slit down the middle, and one corner pulled through to form a twisted knot before frying. Fried in lard until pale gold, they crackle slightly when bitten. Dust with powdered sugar and serve with coffee.

Chef Tips

• Chill the dough at least 30 minutes before rolling. Cold dough rolls thin without tearing and holds the classic diamond shape.
• Heat the lard to 350°F (175°C) for the right balance of color and crisp. Too hot and the outsides brown before the centers cook through.
• Fry in small batches. Crowding drops the oil temperature and turns fattigmann greasy instead of crisp.
• Drain on paper towels, and dust with powdered sugar only after the cookies cool slightly. Hot cookies melt the sugar into a glaze instead of snow.
• Cardamom is the more traditional spice choice in Norway. Swap in lemon zest for a brighter twist.

Variations

• Use butter-flavored shortening or neutral oil in place of lard if lard is hard to find.
• Add a tablespoon of brandy or aquavit to the dough for a traditional Norwegian boozy note.
• Sandwich two cookies together with lingonberry or raspberry jam for a holiday pairing.