Tri-Color Pasta

This pasta is Italian cooking stripped down to what matters: good tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and fresh basil. The sauce simmers for just 25 minutes, long enough to thicken and concentrate the tomato flavor without losing that fresh, bright quality you get from a shorter cook.

The onion goes in first and cooks until soft but not browned. Browning adds caramelized sweetness that would change the character of this sauce. You want the onion to melt into the background and let the tomatoes lead. A single clove of crushed garlic adds depth without overpowering.

A tablespoon of olive oil stirred into the finished sauce right before tossing with the pasta adds a hit of fruity richness and helps the sauce cling to every piece of penne. Half a cup of fresh chopped basil tossed in at the end keeps its color and herbal punch. Parmesan on top is optional but hard to resist.

Kitchen Tips

• Use whole canned tomatoes broken up by hand for a chunkier sauce, or fresh peeled tomatoes when they’re in season. Crushed canned tomatoes work but give a smoother, less textured result.
• Salt the pasta water generously. It’s your only chance to season the pasta itself, and under-seasoned noodles make even a great sauce taste flat.
• Reserve a cup of pasta water before draining. A splash of that starchy water loosened into the sauce helps it coat the pasta evenly.
• Toss the pasta and sauce together in the bowl rather than just pouring sauce on top. The tossing distributes flavor into every piece.

Variations

• Add a pinch of red pepper flakes to the garlic for a spicy arrabbiata-style sauce.
• Stir in a handful of pitted Kalamata olives and capers for a puttanesca twist.
• Use cherry tomatoes halved and sauteed instead of canned for a lighter, fresher summer version.