Joyce's Indonesian Fried Rice

This is nasi goreng by its proper cooking: Indonesian fried rice built on a pounded spice paste (bumbu) of shallots, garlic, serrano chiles, shrimp paste, and turmeric. Tamarind water brings the distinctive sour note, and ketjap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce) delivers the sweet-dark color and flavor that makes this dish recognizable at first bite.

The three-meat trio of shrimp, cooked chicken, and Chinese barbecued pork is what elevates this version. Leftover meat from previous meals is traditional; the dish was originally invented to use up what was on hand. Even one of the three will do, but all three layer the flavors properly.

The rice needs to be day-old and cold from the fridge. Fresh rice has too much moisture and turns to mush; chilled rice has dried slightly and separates into distinct grains when stir-fried.

Traditionally served with sliced cucumber around the edge of the plate and a sunny-side-up fried egg on top. The coriander garnish is a must.

Chef Tips

• Soak the tamarind pulp in boiling water and mash fiber-side down with a fork. Straining removes stringy bits that would be unpleasant in the finished rice.
• Pound the spice paste in a mortar rather than chopping. The difference between pounded and chopped is huge; pounding releases oils that chopping crushes.
• Use day-old jasmine rice from the fridge. Fresh-cooked sticky rice won’t fry properly.
• Bloom the spice paste in oil until fragrant before adding anything else. Underbloomed paste tastes raw and harsh.
• Work over high heat and move fast. Nasi goreng wants wok hei, the smoky char that comes only from screaming hot cookware.

Variations

• Skip the shrimp paste for a vegetarian version; increase the ketjap manis by a teaspoon to compensate for lost umami.
• Swap serranos for bird’s eye chiles if you want more heat, or drop the chiles entirely for a mild version.
• Top with a crisp fried egg (telur mata sapi) for the classic presentation.